Slurpin' USA: Rai Rai Ken

destitute undergrads and desk-bound office drones agree; when it comes to cheap eats on-the-fly, CUP NOODLES reigns supreme. however, if you are longing for a ramen upgrade, perhaps it's time to give the genuine article a slurp.

Rai Rai Ken

214 E 10th Street

New York, NY 10003-7706

Phone: (212) 477-7030

rai rai ken specializes in one thing: RAMEN. the seating is cramped, the service is rushed and the waits are long, but the price is right and the ramen never disappoints. you are best advised to visit on an off day or at an off hour; flocks of hungry NYU students and japanese ex-pats overload the 14-seat venue.

-- no worries; the turn-around is quick, you won't find yourself in line long.

miso ramen --
soy bean based noodle soup topped with bean sprout, cabbage, onion, crispy garlic, chicken, and scallion

the robust, full-bodied broth is a thing of beauty; curiously bold yet refined. a mound of crisp-fried garlic chips bequeath their sharp sweetness to each bite, slicing through the thick broth like little golden razors. the stewed chicken and hearty cabbage warm the body and sooth the soul with their comforting sensibilities. i highly recomend this dish as a starter RAMEN for any first timers.

shio ramen --
house special seafood based noodle soup topped with bamboo shoot, boiled egg, roast pork, spinach, fish cake, dry seaweed, and scallion

light and refreshing if not a tad bit salty. the freshly wilted spinach pair well with the pickled bamboo shoots while the unctuous slices of slow-roasted pork shoulder and hard boiled egg are welcome countermeasures to the piquant brothiness of the dish as a whole. the generous portion of fresh, yet playfully chewy noodles guarantee slurps-a-plenty.

i asked for mine with xtra fish cakes :-)

kimchi --
chinese cabbage, radish, garlic, ginger, scallion, red pepper, salt, sugar, anchovy sauce

i can't say for sure if it's house made or not, but it certainly tastes unique. less tang than most; a bit on the sweet side. garnished with a heap of fresh scallion - it's not the best kimchi i've ever had, but i order it every time.

© 2009 c. c. villani @ "mission: insatiable" - http://missioninsatiable.blogspot.com/

when the stars make you drool...

...just like "pasta fazool", that's Amore. yes, indeed it is.

what's not to love about this dish? it's cheap, healthy, hearty and easy to make. for about $12 you can feed off of this recipe for a week. shit, you could even freeze some and really stretch it out.*

pasta e fagioli (pasta & beans) is a traditional italian peasant dish with as many different recipes as there are regions in italy. my recipe is a souped-up (ha!) version of the one my mother has been making for many moons.

Pasta e Fagioli
yiels 8-12 cups

1/2 - 1 # ditalini pasta (use as much or as little pasta to suit your taste)

oilive oil as needed
1 yellow onion, small dice
1 bulb of fennel, small dice
1 carrot, small dice
2 stalks of celery, small dice
4 cloves of garlic, minced
1 (6 oz) tin of tomato paste
1 (26 oz) carton of Pomi chopped tomatoes
1 qt chicken stock
1 cup reserved bean liquid
1 cup water
1 (15 oz) can of white cannelini beans (liquid reserved)
1 (15 oz) can of red kidney beans (liquid reserved)
salt to taste

1/2 red onion, minced
chopped parsely to garnish
your favorite grated cheese
a crusty loaf of fresh bread

1. get your pasta water ready; fill a large pot with water, salt it liberally and bring up to temp. you want this water boiling by step 4.

2. heat 3 TBLS of olive oil in a heavy-bottom pot or dutch oven. toss in the onion, carrot, celery and fennel - hit them with some salt. saute over medium-high heat until well caramelized. - about 8-10 minutes



3. once the veggies have some nice color add the tomato paste.**



continue to cook until the mixture is caramelized proper; the darker, the better - BUT DON'T BURN IT!

dampen with water if it gets too dry.

4. add the stock, chopped tomatoes, water and the liquid reserved from the beans. make sure to scape up all the little brown bits (fond) on the bottom of the pan. Add the beans, bring to a boil, return to a simmer and cook for 10-15 minutes so the flavors mingle. taste & season.

-- DROP THE PASTA --

5. (optional) i like to add some depth and body to this dish by pureeing about 1 cup of the bean mixture and returning it to pot. not entirely necessary, but it thickens the dish up some and adds layers of flavor. taste & season .



6. cook the pasta until just al dente, drain in a large colander and toss with some olive oil to keep them from sticking together. add pasta to the beans in the amount that best suits your taste. i usually end up using 1/2- 3/4 of a pound.



7. serve in warmed bowls with a slice of bread, freshly grated cheese, chopped parsley, a swirl of olive oil, and the minced red onion. the red onion really ties this dish together, do the right thing and put about a tablespoon in everyone's bowl.



*NOTE: if you decide to freeze your pasta e fagioli, i recommend freezing only the bean-soup mixture and adding freshly cooked pasta prior to serving.

**NOTE: a lot of people assume that tomato paste is just used to thicken a sauce, however, the true value of tomato paste is its ability to add depth and color to a dish. by adding the paste to the aromatics in step 3 you can really intensify its flavor and add crazy layers to your dish.

-- layer your flavor

© 2008 c. c. villani @ "mission: insatiable" - http://missioninsatiable.blogspot.com/